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Hiring a builder

How to tell if a contractor bid is real

You have three bids and no idea which one to trust. Here is how to read a bid, the allowance trick that hides the real price, and the questions that expose a number that was never real in the first place.

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Why this matters so much

Going over budget is the rule, not the exception. In a 2026 Houzz study of more than 10,000 renovating homeowners, 37 percent went over their set budget, and a separate 2025 survey of over 1,000 homeowners landed on the same 37 percent. Two independent surveys reaching the same number is a strong signal. And a big reason it happens is simple: the bid people signed was never the real price. It just looked like one.

The bids are not for the same job

When three bids come back far apart for what you think is the same work, the usual reason is that they are not pricing the same work. One includes the electrical panel upgrade, one does not. One carries a realistic tile budget, one carries a placeholder. One assumes you supply the fixtures. A bid only becomes comparable when there is one written scope that every bidder prices from, and almost no homeowner knows to create that. So the first job is not comparing prices. It is making the three bids describe the same house.

The allowance trick

This is the most common way a bid looks cheaper than it is. An allowance is a placeholder dollar figure for something you have not chosen yet, like tile, cabinets, lighting, or countertops. The bid total assumes those placeholders hold. A builder who wants the lowest total sets them low, so the bid wins, and then you blow past them the moment you go shopping. The gap comes back as a change order, when you have already signed and have the least leverage.

How to catch it: find every allowance in the bid and ask, in writing, whether each number is what you would actually spend on the real product you want. A bid that has no allowances listed at all is not cleaner. It is usually hiding them.

A low bid gets low by removing something

A price does not fall for free. A low bid gets low by leaving something out: scope that was not priced, a thin allowance, permits, or the builder's own margin. None of that makes the house cheaper to build. It moves the cost from the bid to the invoice. A contractor bidding below cost has to find that money later, from you, or walk off the job. This is exactly why the Federal Trade Commission tells homeowners not to automatically choose the lowest bidder, and to ask for an explanation when there is a big difference among the estimates.

The red flags the FTC actually names

The FTC publishes a short list of signs of a home improvement scam. The real ones, not the versions floating around contractor blogs, are: they knock on your door because they are "in the area," they say they have materials left over from another job, they pressure you to decide right now, they want everything paid up front or only take cash, they ask you to pull the building permit, and they steer you to a lender they know.

That fifth one is worth stopping on. If a contractor asks you to pull the permit in your own name, that is not a favor. In Utah, applying for a building permit when you are not licensed to do the work is unlawful conduct under Utah Code 58-55-501. The reason they are asking is usually that they cannot pull it themselves. It also shifts the legal responsibility from them onto you.

What a real bid and a real contract carry

A real bid is specific. It has line items, a written scope, a start and finish estimate, and named allowances you can check. The FTC says a home improvement contract should carry the contractor's name, address, phone, and license number, an estimated start and completion date, any promises that were made out loud, and no blank spaces left unfilled. It also says not to pay the full amount up front and never to make the final payment until the work is done and you are satisfied. If a bid cannot grow into a contract that does all that, it was never a real number.

The questions that expose a fake number

You do not need to be an expert. You need to ask five things. What is not included in this price? Which items are allowances, and are they what I would really spend? Who pulls the permits? What are the start and finish dates in writing? And when is each payment due, and what has to be finished before I pay it? A real builder answers all five without flinching. A fake number gets vague.

When you want a second set of eyes

Reading bids is a skill, and you are being asked to make a six-figure decision using documents you have no training to read. That is exactly what an owner's representative does: an independent expert reads your bids for you, as a third party, and tells you what is missing and where the numbers do not add up. It is a small fee that can save you from the largest mistake in the project. It pairs naturally with real cost estimating, where the job is priced properly on paper before anyone commits, and with design-build, where the people drawing the work are the people pricing it, so the number is honest from the first meeting.

Questions

Reading a contractor bid

Why are my three bids so far apart?
Usually because they are not pricing the same job. One includes something another leaves out, like the electrical panel or the permits, and one carries a realistic materials budget while another carries a low placeholder. Bids only become comparable when every bidder prices from one written scope. Until then, the differences are about what is included, not about who is cheaper.
Should I take the lowest bid?
Not automatically. The FTC specifically advises against choosing the lowest bidder by default and says to ask for an explanation when there is a big difference among estimates. A low bid usually gets low by leaving something out: scope, a realistic allowance, permits, or margin. That cost does not disappear. It comes back later as a change order, when you have the least leverage.
Is it a red flag if the contractor asks me to pull the permit?
Yes. The FTC lists asking the homeowner to get the building permit as a sign of a home improvement scam. In Utah, applying for a permit when you are not licensed to do the work is unlawful conduct under Utah Code 58-55-501. The reason they are asking is often that they cannot pull it themselves, and it shifts the legal responsibility onto you.
What should a real contract include?
The FTC says a home improvement contract should carry the contractor's name, address, phone, and license number, an estimated start and completion date, any promises made out loud, and no blank spaces left unfilled. It also advises not paying the full amount up front and never making the final payment until the work is done and you are satisfied. A bid that cannot grow into a contract like that was never a real number.

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